MICHELLE // Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) (on a Dartless Tank)
The MICHELLE tank/dress pattern is a minimalist design without dart, drafted for B cup. If you are larger than a B cup and want a perfect fit, a full bust adjust and a dart will help the garment fit better. This post will show your our favorite Full Bust Adjustment (FBA) technique.
You can find our Michelle pattern in PDF or paper format on our website |
TRACE YOUR BASE SIZE
Measure your full bust and find the size on the pattern. Go down by the number of sizes :- C Cup: Go one size down
- D Cup: Go two sizes down
- DD Cup: Go three sizes down
PREP THE PATTERN
SPREAD AND CREATE THE DART
Cut the paper as shown, leaving some paper at the strap, at the notch and where lines 2 and 3 meet to create hinges. They will help you handle the paper more easily to create a Y-shaped FBA.Here is how much you need by cup size.
- C cup: Open line 1 by 1.3 cm (1/2'')
- D cup: Open line 1 by 2.5 cm (1'')
- DD cup: Open line 1 by 3.8 cm (1 1/2'')
- Trace lines from the apex to the corners of the opening you created earlier.
- Add a third line in the center to indicate where the center of your dart will be.
- Mark at 2/3 of the center line. That will be the tip of your dart.
The last step for your front alteration is to adjust the length. An FBA adjustment adds fabric in the width but also in the length to make sure there is enough fabric to cover the bust and keep the hem nice and straight.
Use the back piece (remember, the front and back used to be the same) and transfer the hem curve onto your new front:
FBA with more ease at the bottom |
FBA with same width at the hem |
TRANSFER THE ADJUSTMENT ONTO THE FACING (VIEW B AND C)
Trace a copy of your modified front. Measure the side seam length of your facing and transfer it onto your front copy (above + below the dart). Transfer the center front length onto the facing and trace the curve.
Draw a notch at the half mark if you are making the dress (view C).
Happy sewing!
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